Classical Gas!

So, I mentioned our planned visit to the Classics Day at the British Museum last Saturday, the 15th, in the last post. Well, what a gas it was! Absolutely blown away by the four speakers and their presentations. Going up to London the previous day was an excellent decision, a leisurely stroll to the Museum being preferable to an anxious hour and a half on a train crowded with people going to the Trooping of the Colour! At the end of the day, it was also relaxing to walk back to the hotel rather than fight for a place on the train with the same people, and feeling pretty hungry too.

The first speaker was Richard Abdy, curator of Roman and Iron Age Age coins at the Museum who was also the Curator of the major exhibition ‘Legion: life in the Roman Army’. He was followed by Dr. Daisy Dunn, an award-winning classicist and author of seven books and still in her thirties! She is also a cultural columnist and critic. Her lecture was excellent, being about Homer and the Trojan War. Her decision to leave the photo of Brad Pitt in his warrior outfit up a little too long on the screen certainly pleased the women in the audience (and maybe a few men too). I have looked at a couple of her books and they look very good, very readable, which is something which cannot be said for some works on the Classical period. She’s one to watch out for.

BP Lecture Theatre at the British Museum. My photo 15/06/2024

Next was Prof. Ian Morris whose lecture was entitled ‘Killing people and breaking things: What were Roman legions for?’ My eight-year-old inner self loved it! Ian Morris is a lecturer at Stanford University in California and a Fellow of the British Academy. The quote of his title apparently came from US soldiers he spoke to when invited to a base and he asked them what they thought their army was for. They added that unlike other countries, they did not however ‘steal things’. Yes, maybe… His talk was equally impressive as you might expect. The day concluded with a lecture by Prof. Caroline Vout, professor of Classics at the University of Cambridge. She presented ideas about the interpretation of artwork from Ancient Rome and really opened our eyes to misinterpretations. She had a very stated speaking voice, one of those where the last word or two of a sentence is held back for dramatic effect. At times, maybe a little too affected, but an excellent talk which certainly has made me think twice about the mosaics in particular which I have seen.

There was of course the obligatory book-signing session during lunchtime but as all we struggling writers know, never turn down the chance to sell a copy! I had not heard of any of these four people before but I would certainly now buy Daisy’s books and probably Caroline’s. Ian Morris is renowned for ‘big history’, linking events from across the centuries, even millennia, I tend to go for more ‘period’ pieces unless I’m in the pub. But his discussion of ‘mob violence’ and the subtle difference between that and the violence of an army was fascinating. Not many people would expect a lecture on |Roman legions to include a description of the hooliganism of Manchester United supporters!

To top the day off, at lunchtime we went outside to eat sandwiches at the front of the Museum, the clouds blew away, and we had a great view of the fly past for Trooping of the Colour! The tourists coming out at the same time could not believe their luck. Just a shame our aeroplanes looked a little…well…just a little…in Russia or China or the US no doubt there would have been dozens of planes, ours did look a little too little.

So, if you are in the UK next year and interested in the Classical World, you might like to check out who they have speaking and attend. The event is organised by City Lit, a college based in London.

All quiet on my front

It really has been some time since I posted. But who wants to write yet more after trying to write another novel? And the discovery that a one-and-a-half hour train journey to London is quite ‘do-able’ has meant my attention switches to there rather than here. Visits to museums, art galleries, shops not available in a closing-down seaside town, and now lectures and courses at colleges and museums has taken up my time.

As a new member of the British Museum, I have been impressed with their courses and lectures and members’ tours. This coming Saturday we shall be attending their yearly Classics Day, three or four lectures by eminent historians and writers. With a 10.30 start and the Museum only opening at 10.00, we took the (expensive) decision to go up on the Friday and stay over until Sunday. A Saturday evening looming free in London, we were amazed how many theatre shows had tickets available at such a relatively late date. We have booked a visit to the Cambridge Theatre to see Matilda, having seen an exert on TV recently and been blown away by the young actors. So, what started as a spend on train fares and a Museum lecture has snowballed into a two-night hotel stay and a musical, with all the extra meals thrown in to the total. This third book had better be a bestseller!

The British Museum’s Classics Day is partly held through City Lit, a college sited just off the Strand near Charing Cross station. I had signed up to City Lit a year or so ago for some reason but had never been to any of their courses or watched one online. As I was signing up for the Museum’s day through the City Lit website I noticed a course on the archaeology of Southwark, an area along the south bank of the Thames and where I had created my imaginary theatre for my most recent books. Being outside the city walls in the 16th century, the area was outside the laws of the city and that is why the theatres, gambling houses, stews (brothels) and many taverns were established there, as others were to the north of the wall in Smithfield and Shoreditch. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity, and the coincidence, and went to it last Saturday. Starting a little later at 11.00, it was no hassle getting up to London on time, trains busy but no problem, everyone going out somewhere or on a journey and not worried about work…at least not many. An excellent day, nine people there, enough to get a mix of views and a chance to talk with all at some point. I am considering two or three other courses in June and July and then the college closes for August so will have to wait until September for more. Some courses last over several weeks, others form part of a qualification, but I think I will settle for a variety of one-day courses on any subject I’m attracted to…rail strikes and engineering works permitting…hmm.

City Lit, London. My photo 08/06/2024

What else? The third novel in what has become a series about the boy actor at this imaginary late 16th century London theatre is complete in its first draft and editing has started. It stalled several times so it will be interesting to see how it reads. I definitely brought in too many characters early on and will have to sacrifice or combine a few. These three seem to have covered approximately Spring, Summer and Autumn 1590 so I think another will have to move forward a year or so. A plague struck London around 1591/2 and the theatres had to close with the troupes going ‘on tour’ to avoid the disease and to make a living. It would make an interesting back-drop for another story. I also just recently got the idea of a biography of the main female character, a kind of woman who had to write under a man’s name and had to remain unnamed despite her important ideas and contributions. Whether she writes her autobiography or her husband writes her life or a modern-day historian does after stumbling on her papers, I have not decided, and it may never take off, it’s just a vague idea at present.

Whatever you’re doing in your life, remember never to stop learning – find a course or museum near you and discover new things. It will keep you young and may just stave off those terrible illnesses of old age.

16th century Tick-Tock

My photo: 16/04/24

Another trip made up to London and the British Museum, now some four in the last few weeks, and we discovered a fascinating room on the topic of clocks and watches. We came across it first as we tried to find our way out on a previous visit and I was amazed to see a cabinet with a few Tudor/Elizabethan pocket watches. Yes! Or should that be ‘Aye’. Tudor pocket watches. In my research on the period for the novels I have attempted to write, set in 1590, I had not come across any mention of them. They were quite chunky as you would expect and were worn on a chain around the neck, hanging down on the chest. Extremely expensive, they would have been only affordable by royalty, aristocracy and very successful merchants I would guess. But they were stunning in their manufacture and beautifully made. My photographs here don’t do them credit, the lighting and position in the cabinet made it tricky trying to focus and enlarge on my phone. It was hard to credit that one of the watches could tell you when the high tide was due at London Bridge! The one above dates from 1595-1605 and was made by Jan Janssen Bockelts who was born in Aachen but later moved to Haarlem. Apparently there is a slotted disk on the back which determines how many times the hammer strikes the hour.

My photo: 16/04/24

This next one dates from the 1580s and was made by Hans Schniep from Speyer, Germany. In this decade watches had become the rounded shape we know today. It strikes the hours on a bell inside the back of the case. The alarm can be set by turning the disc in the middle until the required time appears beneath the tail of the hand.

My photo: 16/04/24

Next is one from 1600-1620, the maker’s mark being ‘GH’, Germany. Apparently this regular octagonal shape are relatively rare. This one, of high-quality, has a pierced case to allow the bell sound to escape. The silver dial is typical of German watches made during this period.

My photo: 16/04/24

Sorry, I forgot to photo the information on this one! Just enjoy it!

My photo: 16/04/24

This is a guilt-brass watch from 1589 by Ghylis van Gheele from Flanders. The inside of the cover is engraved with the arms of the first owners.

This last one gives you an idea of how they were all displayed in the cabinet. Well worth a visit – and that’s just one room in the British Museum!

British Museum visit

All images in this post are mine, 13/03/24

For some time we have thought of a visit to the British Museum. When I lived in London for a while it was almost a weekly occurance, then when we moved to an hour away it became once every few months and since finding ourselves nearly two hours away by train it has been over a year since we went. Partly this has recently been due to train strikes and/or poor weather. But today, 13th, we crossed fingers the BBC might actually get the weather forecast close to right for once and off we went. Partly spurred on, it must be said, by realising Off Peak prices applied to trains as early as 8.15 from our south coast location – I’m sure it was after 9.00 from other houses we lived in and that would have meant from here only being able to catch the 9.46 at the earliest. Anyway, armed with our Railcard, we saved mightily on the price and had a very enjoyable journey, some of the time listening to two younger people planning their day around Covent Garden and the surrounding shops.

I love travelling by train, I think it goes back to my student days and regularly making trips down to Southampton, up to London, and other places. I particularly enjoyed travelling around 6pm on a Sunday evening, peering into the kitchens and living rooms of houses and flats, catching a glimpse for literally a second of people’s lives. There’s a book to be written there, methinks. Starting at 8.46, we arrived at Charing Cross around 10.30, had time for coffee and croissant after choosing from what seemed like a thousand coffee houses around The Strand and Covent Garden (and, yes, bumping into the young couple!), and then into the Museum.

Atrium – shop, cafes, help desks, entrances to exhibition rooms

And, yes, there were swarms of schoolchildren, some in high-vis jackets looking like they off on a break from the railway repairs, some in jeans and T-shirts, and some in smart uniforms that gave me hope English education wasn’t quite dead. It didn’t matter, it was wonderful to see them being introduced to Britain’s and the world’s history. We spent a happy two hours walking the Greek and Roman displays and one about The Enlightenment period in Britain. We had to earmark the Romans in Britain and Sutton Hoo for the return visit as our feet were aching and our eyes blurring in the very low lighting (justifiable I expect but it is a pain).

Continuing this the next day…after having taken out a year’s membership to the BM. With free entrance to the special exhibitions, usually around £22 each, I reckon I will have covered the membership with three visits to the normally three exhibits each year. You also have more freedom when to visit them, not being required to book a slot. Anyway, here’s a few pictures from our visit yesterday, no captions, just wonder at the craftsmanship on display.

With a multitude of coffee houses to choose from, we had a coffee and croissant along The Strand before the Museum, then lunch sitting outside a coffee house by the Theatre Royal Drury Lane. We did begin to wonder why so many 6-7 year old girls were going by wearing bright blue princess’ dresses, accompanied by their mothers, then realised Frozen was the production at the theatre and a matinee performance was about to begin, confirmed by the arrival of a coachload of schoolchildren, fortunately not in bright blue dresses.

When walking up through Covent Garden, we came across this four-piece band playing excerpts from classical music. They were excellent and drawing a good crowd. I believe they, or other musicians, are a daily feature.

As we came out of Charing Cross Station I was immediately reminded of my present book. In part of it the main characters make a journey around London’s streets, one being The Strand, and at one point they come across the battered cross erected by Edward 1 in memory of his beloved wife, Eleanor. Thirteen of these were put up, wherever her body rested overnight on its journey from the North. The original one in London was the biggest of all but it was pulled down in the 17th century. In 1865 this replica was erected and still stands to this day. I wonder how many people hurrying to and fro the railway actually realise it is there and what it is.

A marvellous day out, even the schoolkids on the train back were extremely well spoken and discussing the Israeli-Gaza conflict. There is hope for this country yet (a little bit, perhaps).

London Town

Photo by Tamara Menzi on Unsplash

It’s been a while since we travelled to the city. It’s a near two-hour journey by train from the south coast so you have to plan to make a day of it to make it all worthwhile. Well, we did last week. A sunny day, trains on time, clean, no hold-ups, just a little packed early on with the return journey at 7 p.m. catching the last of the commuters. Maybe we should have stayed for a show or a movie.

Our target was the British Museum, last visited several years before Covid. A long, winding queue rather killed the initial impression of the front of the building, okay for us who’ve been before but not so for first timers. The queue was for a baggage check which was a little overkill. Interesting there was no check on the way out when it would have been easy to hide away a book or five taken from the extensive shopping area in the main forum. Anyway, a minor gripe. Oh, and very few people followed the advice on face masks. On the website it still suggests booking slots to visit but no one we spoke to had bothered. It is necessary for new exhibitions though.

The displays were excellent, especially the Greek exhibits which were our focus. The one other gripe would be the low level of lighting. They may argue it’s to save money or protect the pieces, but it gets to a state where it is genuinely hard to study the items. And when plastic information boards are virtually in blackout you do wonder what fools are in charge (ah, I hear you say, probably a few Tory MPs moonlighting as Museum advisors…)

We diverted to look at Korean displays and were amazed by the range of plates, dishes, whatever. Some from the 18th century looked like the latest designs from Harrods. Single-coated items in bright colours – simply amazing. It was also fascinating to see how many Koreans, Chinese and Japanese were there to look at the displays.

Despite the lighting and queuing problems, a fabulous day out – and return visits are needed to see the rest and revisit what we saw!

A walk through Covent Garden reminded us how much this has changed in recent years and it would be worth a visit in its own right. An excellent string quartet was entertaining folks in one area. The acoustics were tremendous – we could have stayed there all day!

Chinatown was hectic, especially around 6 p.m., and the lanterns suspended across the streets very atmospheric. There are tables everywhere these days out on the streets, a leftover from Covid I guess.

We also discovered a new clothing store – UNIQLO – Japanese/Korean? Excellent range of reasonable priced goods. In Regent Street and online.